preserved cherries in syrup

 

i recently reread one of my favourite books from childhood- gerald durrell’s my family and other animals. set primarily on corfu this book (and the other two in the trilogy) tells wild and exciting animal-related tales about the various escapades that budding naturalist gerry got up to, often to the exasperation of his flamboyant family and neighbours, or the delight of the other animal-loving people he meets during his childhood.

while remembering the humour of his stories (i’ve never forgotten his puppies “widdle” and “puke” or cyclops, his pet owl) and the beautiful pink, white and lemon villas that the family moved between (in search of indoor plumbing and space to cope with an ever-increasing number of exotic houseguests of the two and more-legged varieties), the bit i’d forgotten was the tales of food. there is always a picnic in the offing, a party being planned or local neighbours for gerry to visit and eat with as he explores the island.

this, along with a bounty of cherries, prompted me to make preserved cherries, which tessa kiros describes as “something that many greek and cypriot people have in their fridge and offer to visitors with a glass of ice cold water or coffee. they are eaten straight off the spoon and some people then like to stir their syrupy spoon into their glass of water.”

i’ve been enjoying these as an accompaniment to moist citrus and almond cakes, with fresh summer berries, or with ice cream. they are also very delicious (and slightly more picturesque!) in a cocktail such as the pictured cherry blossom (an improved variation, in my opinion, on the recipe previously given). it’s also a good way to rescue slightly-sour cherries

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russian cocktail

this is believed to be the first vodka cocktail to appear in print. more importantly, it is delicious and a very good way to use any homemade kirsch you have knocking around…

to make, shake with ice, 1 ½ shots vodka, ¾ of a shot of cherry brandy, ¼ of a shot of kirsch. strain into a martini glass and serve with a maraschino cherry to garnish (or not).

pickled cherries

  

skye gyngell’s second book is arranged around her favourite ingredients, one of which are cherries. the recipe which really stood out for me, not least as it will help make my precious cherry bounty last beyond the summer, was for pickled cherries.

apparently these can be made with sour morello cherries but i just used normal eating ones, choosing those which were attached to each other in pairs or even trios, so they will look especially pretty when we get chance to eat them.

apparently they will last for up to a year and most of the recipe ideas skye shares feature autumnal or winter produce (game, bitter leaves, fresh walnuts) but i think i’ll be trying them much sooner…

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the scene of the crime

i love the arrival of summer fruit, especially when it is british and has the sweetness and depth of flavour that show it’s in season, local and exactly what you should be eating, because nothing can beat it for deliciousness.

i picked up a box of cherries at the local market and managed to restrain myself by not eating the lot over the weekend. half have been stoned and are in the fridge in a light syrup; the other half are being pickled. and the stones are being put to very good use, to make me another batch of homemade kirsch.

homemade kirsch

according to anna, the culinary anthropologist, “if you stone your cherries, pop the stones in a jar and cover with the strongest, plainest alcohol you have (97% from italy, or the strongest vodka you can find).  store somewhere dark and shake the jar every now and then when you remember.  several months later you will have kirsch!”

i couldn’t resist when i was making cherry clafoutis earlier this month (which wasn’t a great success – i need to try another recipe and see if it went wrong or i’m just not a clafoutis fan) and now, in one of my cupboards, i have a jar of cherry stones in vodka which i give a little shake every now and then. fingers crossed.